
Date of Birth: March 17, I forgot what year (I’m pretty old)
Best Known For: Almost making the biggest wave ever paddled into
Local Spot: The whole North Shore
My Crew: Kai Borg, Pat O'Connell and my wife
Board of Choice: Depends on the surf. HIC makes me great boards
Dream Wave: I still like 4-foot Macaronis in Indonesia
| My Top Five: | 1.) Cafe Haleiwa 2.) (Tie) Lei Leis and Haleiwa Joes 3.) Chun's Store 4.) Pizza Bobs |
Anyway, I surfed V-land this morning. Sean Hayes was out with Shane Beschen. They were just finishing a coaching seminar with the Red Bull team. Carrisa, Brother Andino,and Conner coffin?, were all getting the benefits of their wisdom. Those kids don't need coaching, its not fair. But then again, I'd love to coach those kids, cause as a coach they'd make me look like a genius.
I missed the Mavericks opening ceremony yesterday. I was on Lost, hanging on a cable (not too much info). I'm stoked I still get invited to the event, so I'm bummed I had to "work". I'm thinking about going up there to just go surf, we'll see. Its always good to freeze my ass, makes me appreciate home.--Brock
About a month ago, Pat O called and told me I was going to do some commentating on the webcast for the Hurley Pro at Tresles. I tried to wiggle my way out, but when Pat sets his mind to something there is no changing it. I was on my way to Cal. For most people this probably sounds fun. Hurley pays my way to the mainland, gives me great accommodations (Pat's couch), and Pat takes me out to dinner, lets me drink his wine and eat his ice cream.
All I have to do is bullshit about the best surfers in the world. I know this makes me sound like a puss, but talking on the web is scary. Let me go paddle in at Waimea, or do some dumb stunt, those are things I can handle. Walking into the webcast booth, that's intimidating.
Once I get going, it's all good, and then come the e-mails. In between questions and "Atta boy Brock" is the constructive criticism all the webcasters love. Stuff like "You're a kook," "I'm tired of Brock already" etc., all that crap tends to stick with you more than the love letters.
This year the waves were inconsistent, but I thought the contest was still insane. The level of pro surfing is so high. This was the first time in at least a decade, I walked away not sure who the best surfer in the world is. For me it's always been Kelly. This year, I thought a few of the guys had reached his level, or maybe he slipped a little. Could be his boards suck. Whatever, now I feel like Kelly's one of the best, with company.
Can't wait to webcast next year, if Kelly's on tour he'll prove me wrong. If he's retired, he'll e-mail me and call me a kook.—Brock
Snips and Pat O got a lot of shots. Wes Laine got coverage. Mark Foo and Todd Chesser were popular before they passed, looking at them kind of gave me chills. It's fun to watch Kelly grow up. He seemed to be in the mags since he was in diapers. There were lots of photos of creek, and Natividad, not to mention Todos. I forgot how big some of the waves we rode at Todos were.
I got to be reminded of some of the places I got to travel. They include Alaska, Ireland, Morocco, and Peru. All these were great trips...I hope to write about them in later blogs. But now, I have to go and weed though some more mags, my dad is on my case. It doesn't matter how old you are, dads will always try to boss you around.
I taught kids from the Boys and Girls Club to surf the other day. The pro surfers who helped were Brian Keaulana, Aaron Napolean, and me. Brian and Aaron are two of my idols. Here is a picture of us signing autographs. — Brock
Surfed 1ft. Salt Creek, with the mayor of creek himself, Pat O. I rode Kai Barger's board and ripped. Pat told me the lefts off the point sandbar is the best ever. I'm bummed I had to leave, knowing how good Creek is going get.
The Eddie always had a bunch of politics (who's getting in, format ect.) But now I think the Maverick's contest is worse. Jeff Clark might not run the event, there might not be any money, not sure about the format, and some of the invitees are getting old (me). The best big-wave event I ever surfed was the Eddie in '86. 1st place was $1500. That wasn't a lot of money back then either. Anyway, they thew up a scaffold, and had the event in big shitty surf. We all surfed that day basically for fun, and bragging rights. I don't think that can happen again.
There is a tropical storm about to hit Hawaii. Hopefully we'll get some surf. As a surfer I don't worry to much about if the storm will do damage, just how the waves will be. That's f'ed up.— Brock