Date of Birth: May 30, 1984

Best Known For: Finding the background

Local Spot: HB Pier

My Crew: Wife Danielle, DSC crew

Board of Choice: 6'2” x 18.65” x 2.3” Maurice Gyenes (DS Surfboards)

Dream Wave: One that barrels from start to finish

My Top Five Bands:

1.) Thrice 2.) As I Lay Dying 3.) Underoath 4.) August Burns Red 5.) Phil Wickham

Finding the openings in HB. Video: Tom Aiello

A Mentawais photo gallery before and after the devastating earthquake. Photos: Riley Cooney

It doesn't hit you until it really hits you: In the Mentawais, you're surfing in a seismic hotbed. And if the past few years haven't been proof enough, the recent 7.6 temblor on Sept. 30 confirms it once again.

Bob Hurley and a crew of friends of family were anchored just off Macaronis — relaxing in between sessions — when the quake hit. They heard a rumble, felt a shake and realized it wasn't just a cleanup set or a thunderhead. And while they enjoyed a memorable trip up until that point, the rest was a blur. Rushed through Padang, dodging all the collapsed buildings and wreckage. Sirens and panic. And eventually finding a way home.

But the difference for traveling surfers is, they actually have a home to go to. Many of the locals in Padang and the surrounding area have lost everything. Homes, friends, family members. These are the same people who help keep the Mentawais charter machinery in motion. Who are an important part of the two decades of surf imagery that's fueled our dreams and the industry itself.

Fortunately, many in the surf industry realize this and are doing everything they can. Many organizations are currently administering aid, food and assistance to Indonesia's hardest hit areas. Surf Aid International, Red Cross, Last Mile Operations...the list goes on.

In an effort to do our part, Hurley and its H2O division is holding a benefit event this Wednesday, October 14, at the "A" Restaurant in Newport Beach.

Here are the details according to Bob:

"The evening is informal and kicks off at 6PM. No RSVP or tickets required. No silent auction, but donations received with gratitude.....We will have a tip jar for Surf Aid on the bar and gladly accept cash and checks........please bring your friends and your smile. Please make checks out to Surf Aid.

This recent quake was severe and tragic.......Wednesday Nite is another great chance for our industry to give back to the victims of the quake and the wonderful people of Padang and the Mentawai Islands."

Where:
“A” Restaurant
3334 W. Pacific Coast Highway
Newport Beach, Ca. 92663
(Intersection of PCH and the 55)

PH: 949-650-6505
6 PM Wed. October 14th

If you can't make it, be sure to go to http://www.surfaidinternational.org donate to the cause.

Brad Ettinger walks us through last week's mega swell. Sequence: Joe Foster

This day was the most crowded I have ever seen the Wedge. Just getting to the beach was an adventure in itself. We suprisingly found a parking spot realtively quickly, but we were about six blocks away.

The beach had so many people I could barely walk with my board down to the shoreline. The swell this day had a lot of west in it so the waves were hitting against the jetty more than usual. The good news was that there were only a half dozen guys in the water so there were plenty of waves.

I only caught two waves that day, but it took an hour to get 'em. My first one is the wave in the video: big, brown, ugly and no hope. But it was fun. The second one I totally thought I'd make it. I was under the ledge, had a good jump on it, but right as I stood up it looked hopeless. So, I jumped. On the bigger days out there, it's deeper so I didn't hit bottom on either of these waves. But on the smaller days, you're nailing the sand every time. It's so crazy when you take off — full arena vibe. It was funny 'cause earlier that day, I surfed a heat against Kelly at the US Open and I felt like I was at the Staples Center. Then I went down to Wedge and it was there another huge audience.

Anyway, catching the waves wasn't the problem this day — it was swiming in to the beach after getting smashed. I would be ten feet from the beach, trying to bodysurf in and I wasn't going anywhere. After ten minutes of swimming, I thought I'd be flagging down the lifeguard boat a couple hundred yards offshore. But eventually I made it in. People write off the Wedge as a novelty or just a shorebreak. But for all the beatings you get out there, just one good one makes it all worth it.

After a week of perfect waves at the Hurley True Performance House, it's time to bid farewell.

I had a great rest of my trip. Surfed a couple more times in front of the house and on the last day me and Dillion Perillo surfed this A frame peak all to ourselves. Not a bad way to end things. Enjoyed my one day at home today. Surfed southside HB trying out a new board, hung with the family a little, and had a session at El Ranchito mexican food.

Now its off to South Africa and Brazil where me and Simpo will go attempt to conquer the World! The World qualifying (WQS) series that is. See ya soon...