It's been a great summer hasn't it?! Up here in foggy Pacifica it's been nothing like it's usual self. The sun's been out, there's been plenty of swell, and people are wearing 2mm wetsuits and surfing for hours! But before you start thinking about coming up here to surf you should know that these are the types of waves we consider fun, notice how it's closeout hit after closeout hit? I would kill to get two good sections to bash on one wave. Since nobody's gonna send me anywhere i gotta make do with we got.... and i've been squeezing the crap out of those lemons to make lemonade!
-TPayne
Waiting for a south swell to go surf Lowers and pick up some fresh boards.
Don't you kinda feel like superman when you get to surf without a wetsuit?! I love it! I don't even care if it's not that warm by most people's standards, I'm all over it. I just went on another quick trip down south to get some new boards and score a little bit of south swell at trestles. I was the only one wearing trunks for sure! i'd say 80% of the people out had full suits on and the other 20% with a short sleeve suit.
The surf was really fun, way better than anything around here during the summer. And the boards are sick as usual, I'm gonna go see if i can't do some artwork on my board that doesn't look like one of Julian Wilson's boards.. you know those bold multi-shaped colors running along the lower side of the board? Why does everyone copy each others sprays, i don't get it. Anyway check out some quick shots and I'm gonna go tear a page out of a Surfer mag with my favorite surfer and try my best to make my board look exactly the same.
Peace,
TPayne
Here's a few clips from a session that went down a little while ago. I know i forced the shit out of that first little air, but whatever.. a few throw away clips to check out. I've been surfing everyday lately, if not twice a day, so I've been pretty busy with dawn patrols down the coast. Haven't surfed my home breaks in like two weeks. The sun has been shining a lot so i've been able to push aside my fear of sharks and seals, and scored a lot of really good, uncrowded waves. The surf has been super fun and clean, lots of south swells creeping up. Hopefully it won't stop!
TPayne
