Hometown session filmed and commented by my cousin Colin who's out of the water with a freshly drilled ear, check my first ever slob grab reverse... huge i know.
It's been a great summer hasn't it?! Up here in foggy Pacifica it's been nothing like it's usual self. The sun's been out, there's been plenty of swell, and people are wearing 2mm wetsuits and surfing for hours! But before you start thinking about coming up here to surf you should know that these are the types of waves we consider fun, notice how it's closeout hit after closeout hit? I would kill to get two good sections to bash on one wave. Since nobody's gonna send me anywhere i gotta make do with we got.... and i've been squeezing the crap out of those lemons to make lemonade!