Brock Little's latest blog update in which he talks about big waves, fighting and Carissa Moore (yes, somehow they all go together).
I've always had a big ego. Still do. When I was in my prime (a while ago), nobody could take off deeper or go bigger. I was fearless. I would go on pretty much anything. The first time I surfed Jaws, I pulled in the barrel. I ate shit, but whatever. Then one day, Shane Dorian paddled out to Himalayas and sat 50 yards inside me. I already knew it, but I was no longer the man. Fighting, I was the same way. I wasn't afraid of anybody. Now Joel Tudor beats me up.
At least I still have Haleiwa. I rule the place. When Haleiwa is good, I'm out there. When it's bad, sometimes I'm out there too. On any given day, I'm the best guy out. Sunny, Joel, Moody, Freddy P, they're regulars, but I'm the main guy.
I've never been a big fan of girls competitive surfing. I even did an article in SURFER kind of writing them off. I used to think the only people watching the chicks surf were their boyfriends, "girlfriends," and parents. They sold clothes, not because they surfed good, but because Lisa A. was cute. They belonged in a Roxy mini skirt, not a competition jersey.
So I'm out surfing Haleiwa, and I'm surfing good. Joel's out, but I feel like I'm getting the best of him. The waves are perfect. I've got a great board. It doesn't get any better. Then Carissa Moore paddled out.
I've surfed with Carissa a lot and was always impressed. Lately it seemed she was losing a little bit of her talent because of a growth spurt. I thought she grew too fast and wasn't quite used to her body. Bottom line: I thought she surfed well, but I wasn't a huge fan. She was riding a board that looked too long for her. Then she caught a wave. OMG, F, she did three fins free snaps on a longer board that made anything I did all day look stupid. I figured it was just one wave and it was some kind of fluke. I was wrong. Wave after wave she was just awesome. My ego has been crushed.
Well... maybe I'm still the best guy out.