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Friday, September 4, 2009
But not before he thumbs through memory lane with his mag collection
I'm 42 and I'm moving out of my parents' house. I had to move into the house that I own, with my wife. No more rental income for me. My parents, on the other hand, are taking my downstairs dwelling, and turning it into a rental. That means I have to move out all my shit. That shit includes a load of surf magazines. I figured I'd throw a bunch away. After starting to go though a few, I'm not sure I can throw any away. Each issue is like a high school yearbook. The issues I'm not in, are almost, (well they're not), as interesting as the ones I'm in.

 

Snips and Pat O got a lot of shots. Wes Laine got coverage. Mark Foo and Todd Chesser were popular before they passed, looking at them kind of gave me chills. It's fun to watch Kelly grow up. He seemed to be in the mags since he was in diapers. There were lots of photos of creek, and Natividad, not to mention Todos. I forgot how big some of the waves we rode at Todos were.

I got to be reminded of some of the places I got to travel. They include Alaska, Ireland, Morocco, and Peru. All these were great trips...I hope to write about them in later blogs. But now, I have to go and weed though some more mags, my dad is on my case. It doesn't matter how old you are, dads will always try to boss you around.

I taught kids from the Boys and Girls Club to surf the other day. The pro surfers who helped were Brian Keaulana, Aaron Napolean, and me. Brian and Aaron are two of my idols. Here is a picture of us signing autographs. — Brock