Remembering the one that got away during late-July's bomb swell in Puerto
I got a couple big lefts to warm up, then on my fourth wave was the right. I have to say it was the biggest barrel I've been in. Thinking about it, it felt like I did everything right. When I was in there, I saw a lip falling closer to me and I thought I was too close to it. So I tried to make one big pump to go higher in the barrel. But it was a mistake because my board skipped from me and I felt myself coming out of the barrel as I was falling. I took beatings from that wave and two more after it.
I was pretty happy and thankful that I didn't get hurt. At the same time, I was bummed I didn't come out on my feet. It could have been a real contender in the XXL. But maybe God didn't want that for me yet.
Now I have to stay strong and positive and wait for my next chance. — Coco