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Friday, May 29, 2009

They're fun to ride, but you wouldn't want your friends to see

Lots and lots of windswell these days! Surf hasn't been doing a whole lot lately. Don't get a lot of south swell up here so we have just been getting the most out of this constant nine-second interval crap! Every day for the last 10 days or so has been waist- to head-high onshore slop. You could be surfing every day of that, or not at all, and be fine with it. I've probably been skating more than I've been surfing, but still managed to get the hype up for a few fun sessions.

 

These are pictures of an average day of surf a couple days ago. I pulled the back fin out of my 5'7'' recently and it's just been ridiculously fun! It goes so fast down the line. You can do straight airs so easy on that thing, reverses are hard, though... once you kick the back foot out it just goes flying into the air. I recommend that everyone have some type of short fat board. It will guarantee you more water time out of the spring/summer.

 

TPayne